Where is Sandaig?

Present Day Camusfearna

Sandaig and the ‘Bay of Alder’ is a very remote destination found on the Isle of Tiree, off the west coast of Scotland. Here writer Gavin Maxwell lived with his beloved otters. Guest writer Jean from the Netherlands shares his dream, travel destination and fondness for the author with TravelTipsPlus.com.

Some places are more special than others. The most special #dream #travel destination for me is Gavin Maxwell’s (1914-1969) ‘Bay of Alder’ in Scotland. It’s the remote place where Maxwell lived for almost 20 years. The place where he wrote his books, took care of his otters, planned his travels and licked his new wounds.

Camusfearna during the 1950s

Sandaig, Bay of Alder (in gaellic ‘Camusfearna’) in 1950 to the right and top photo, of present day Camusfearna.

I have read all Gavin Maxwell’s books. I have also read all the books that talk about him and his life. His father and grandfather were also authors and I’ve read some of their books also! To be short, I’m very fond of Gavin Maxwell. Here is a quote by him (1959) that I would like to share:

“It is October, and I have been for six unbroken months at Camusfearna. The stags are roaring on the slopes of Skye across the Sound, and yesterday the wild swans passed flying southwards low over a lead-grey sea. The ring of tide-wrack round the bay is piled with fallen leaves borne down the burn, and before a chill sea wind they are blown racing and scurrying up the sands. The summer, with its wild roses and smooth blue seas lapping white beaches, is over; the flower of the heather is dead and the scarlet rowan berries fallen. Beyond are the brief twilit days of winter, when the waterfall will thunder white over flat rocks whose surface was hot to bare feet under summer suns, and the cold, salt-wet wind will rattle the window and moan in the chimney. This year I shall not be there to see and hear these things; home is for me as yet a fortress from which to essay raid and foray, an embattled position behind whose walls one may retire to lick new wounds and plan fresh journeys to father horizons. Yet while there is time there is the certainty of return.”

Edal the Otter's Grave

My three favourite Gavin Maxwell books: G. Maxwell, ‘Ring of Bright Water’. G. Maxwell, ‘The House of Elrig’. Douglas Botting, ‘Gavin Maxwell, A Life’.

One day in the month of May I will walk with a rucksack from Inverness to Sandaig. Accompanied with rain, wind and sun. At the end of the journey I’ll find Edal’s monument at Camusfearna. It’s the exact place where once Gavin’s writing table stood. The house was burnt to the ground in January 1968 and Otter ‘Edal’ perished in the fire.

RING OF BRIGHT WATER – Gavin Maxwell

Map

TravelTipsPlus Google Map of Isle of Tiree

One Great Reason to Visit Sandaig

One great reason to visit this travel destination is for the very remote location accompanied with wild otters once in a while.

Wings of Wild Swans

Contemporary folk song. Inspired by the Scottish Highlands. Lyrics inspired by a line in Gavin Maxwell’s ‘Ring of Bright Water’. Photographed at Sandaig where, as Camusfearna, Gavin made his home.

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Where is Oman?

Ruwi looking to Muscat Bay

Muscat is a sparkling white low-rise gem strung along the Gulf of Oman backed by amazing mountains. This dramatically-located capital and travel destination is called the ‘Jewel of Arabia’ and here is what guest writer Julie Wise perceived as 7 areas you must visit in Muscat as part of your Omani adventure – no particular order.

1. Ruwi

Ruwi is the cosmopolitan and modern quarter where the commercial activities of the city are undertaken. Muscat has a strict building code of 8 stories max and traditional Arabic architectural influences must be included in every building (there is a 12-storey Sheraton built prior which is under restoration to compile with these rules). The result is a place with its own distinctive flavour, one that has modern comforts whilst honouring its beautiful heritage. A splendid example is the Bank of Oman building. These gold doors are just a hint of what is inside the foyer and yes you can enter it. Do try it.

The Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum which provides a great insight into Oman’s fascinating military and political history is located in150 year old Bait Al Falaj fort behind the Ministry of Information. Don’t be put off by the guarded entrance – it is a working military base – the museum is open to visitors and included in the entrance price is a private escort around the museum. Not to be missed is their photo collection of Muscat in 1975 and the same shots taken again in 2006. There is a vast array of exhibits so you can spend quite some time there. The museum closes at 1pm.

2. Old Muscat

City Gate to Old Muscat

Old Muscat is where you’ll find the historical area and govt buildings. Bait al Zubair Museum – showcases the cultural history and tradition of Oman. The museum displays include Omani jewellery, costume, dress, household items and Omani weapons including many styles of the Khanjar. Apart from the museum there is a book house and an Omani town house located within the premises where there is a rich collection of works of art and artefacts, originally owned by the founding family, including a room dedicated to paintings of Omani cartography.

Also in Old Muscat is the Sultan’s ceremonial palace Al Alam Palace. Built in 1972 it has a facade of gold and blue. Behind the palace is beautiful Muscat Bay where you can view the splendour of the Mirani and Jalali Forts which surround the palace. The palace is not open to visitors but entry to Jalali Fort can at times be arranged through the govt ministry office.

Exiting Old Muscat you’ll pass through the Old City gates which are built on the mountain Outcrop that once defined the boundary of Muscat city.

3. The Corniche

Once you pass the gates you’ll begin your ‘cruise’ along the corniche. Here you’ll pass a series of lookouts and parks where locals and tourists alike stroll along appreciating the cool evening breezes that come from the Gulf of Oman. Each of these parks has a particular defining feature such as lights throwing colour onto the rocky outcrops, fountains and in Riyam Park a watchtower built to resemble an incense burner.

4. Muttrah

The Corniche finishes at Muttrah Harbour. You can arrange a harbour trips by traditional dhow or admire the yachts that may be berthed there – including the Royal Yacht and its supply vessel.

However, Muttrah’s real attraction is the traditional souq. The souq comprises areas for 3 distinct shopping – Fish Market (which has its own dedicated roundabout with a fish built on it), the Fruit & Vegetable souq and the ancient Arabian marketplace to buy just about everything else you would need. The Fish & F&V markets operate first in the morning and are generally finished by 11am.

Muttrah Souk

The Arabian souq also starts in the morning but it trades through the day until about 11pm(ish). This souq will take you into a world where time stands still. There are rows and rows of shops selling spices, perfumes, gold, incense, textiles and artefacts making up this labyrinth. You will lose yourself both literally and in time. The Frankincense wafts from burners at the front of some of the shops while countless pieces of Omani silver adorn the walls of others. Apart from shopping, you literally spend your time soaking up the atmosphere, wandering around and immersing in the sights, sounds and smells of the place.

Its trade in the same way it has been for thousands of years. Bargaining is a must, however. Gold and silver are well priced and mainly sold by weight. Good buys are silver khanjars (the traditional Omani dagger, worn by men) and incense burners. Go at night from 6pm, the earlier day trade is mainly for less adventurous tourists and very few locals go so it lacks the colour, expert haggling and the sense of magic.

On the promenade outside the souq’s entrance you can eat a good local meal and simply watch it all pass before your eyes. (Tip: if a cruise boat is in the harbour avoid the souq, prices are known to rise)

5. The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

The Grand Mosque

Without doubt the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is unique. The only way to photograph it is to stand across the 8-lane highway. The Mosque complex covers 40,000 square metres so yes its size is grand. In fact everything is biggest this, biggest that, bigger than, only one in the world etc. Here are 3 of its facts – It holds 20,000 worshippers when the Prayer Hall, courtyard and Women’s Hall are opened into a connected space, a 14 metre Swarovski crystal chandelier with gold-plated metalwork hangs in the Prayer Hall and the Persian Rugs were weaved especially for the Mosque by 600 weavers over 4years.

That all said this place is stunningly beautiful in its design, simplicity and functionality. Its tranquil rose and frangipani gardens help give the Grand Mosque its purpose – a place of prayer and reflection. In my opinion this complex ranks up there with the best in the world. My ‘churched-out’ husband declared that for him it ranks above St Peters Rome & St Pauls London and possibly the Louvre.

Visitors are allowed between 8am & 11am Sat- Wed. Men can wear t-shirts but no shorts. Women need to be covered head-to-toe. They will provide pashminas and help you cover as required at the entrance. Shoes need to be taken off to enter any of the prayer halls which are open to all but children under 10. Water is allowed to be carried & it’s wise to do so. Photography is also allowed throughout the complex – including the Library.

6. Amouage

This is a special treat for both men and women. Amouage is one of the world’s most exclusive parfums and is considered the gift of kings. The factory is in Muscat’s suburbs and they do receive visitors. You tour the very small factory where everything is still hand-made – including measuring the parfum into its bottle. My husband, a frequent visitor to Oman, had brought me Amouage previously. I was so excited to actually meet the young girl who had wrapped my parfum as every bottle is signed by the person who applies the seal. They will even choose a blend to suit you. Be warned, you won’t leave empty-handed but you will leave light of wallet.

7. The Beach

Muttrah Harbour

Sounds strange doesn’t it but Oman has some spectacular beaches and many of them are in Muscat itself. My pick would be Shatti Al-Qurum beach near the major hotels. The beach is gorgeous – pristine and peaceful with cool clean waters. Take a dip in the sea to feel cool water splash against your warm skin but be warned the sun is brutal so take whatever precautions you need. Late in the afternoon you’ll find the locals out enjoying the coolness, playing football or volleyball as relaxation or exercise. Just a 2 minute walk from the beach is a little plaza with ice cream stores, cafes (including a branch of Darcy’s) and the all too familiar western chains and a movie theatre. Also on Friday evenings this is where the ‘cool dudes’ hang out with their Ferraris, Lamborghinis and other supercars

A visit to Muscat is a rewarding and perhaps a surprisingly rich experience for those enjoy a healthy dash of culture and unique architecture with an abundance of friendly locals waiting to help you at every opportunity.

Hopefully you have enjoyed this quick snapshot of Muscat. I would love to come back and share the rest of Oman with you. It is truly a beautiful travel destination.

An essential guide to Oman

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TravelTipsPlus Google Map of Oman

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Where is Yellow Mountain?

Yellow Mountain

The spectacular Yellow Mountain, also known as Mount Huangshan, is found nestled in the Anhui Province of eastern China. Yellow Mountain received inscription as a UNESCO heritage site during 1990 for its magnificent landscape and significant contribution to Chinese art and culture.

Yellow Mountain is made up of 72 granite peaks, projecting gnarled pine trees from crevices, clear mountain springs and misty-clouds that shroud the tall peaks. The highest peak ‘Lianhua Feng’ has sitting upon the top of it, a lone rock, called ‘Monkey Rock’. It was so named after a legendary monkey that fell in love with a village-girl. Today, ‘Yellow Mountain’ joins a number of other splendid travel destinations China has to offer the visitor such as Yellow River, Yangtze River, Terracotta Warriors and the Great Wall of China.

The area with its natural beauty, mystical and spiritual atmosphere has inspired many artists over the centuries. Poets, writers, Chinese ink painters have all converged on Yellow Mountain.

Yellow Mountain is included in this beautiful book ‘China’s Sacred Sites’

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TravelTipsPlus Google Map of Yellow Mountain

One Great Reason to Visit Yellow Mountain

One great reason to visit this travel destination is for the sheer majestic peaks; shrouded in mist.

The Mystic World of Shanshui / Mount Huangshan

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Where is Kaikoura?

View over Kaikoura

Kaikoura is located at the top of the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. A small township with a population of only 3,000 people, it draws around 900,000 tourists a year because of resident giant sperm whales and up to seven other species of whale which come to feed in the deep waters off the coast.

Angela Pearse spent three days in Kaikoura and had her own up close and personal whale experience.

“Our first sperrrrrm whale coming up ladies and gentlemen!”, shouts Jim our onboard commentator, and general funny man, for the two and a half hour whale watching experience.

Up until now we’ve been motoring at a steady pace from shore but suddenly the boat shoots off, rocking alarmingly up and down on the two metre swell. When checking in with Whale Watch Kaikoura [www.whalewatch.co.nz] there was a sea-sickness warning but I came prepared with my ‘Ease the Quease’ pills which I dutifully took before even setting foot on the boat. I have a weak stomach at the best of times.

A fellow passenger lets the waves get the better of her and throws up gracefully into a complimentary paper bag. I’m sympathetic but with cries of “We’re chasing a whale, ladies and gentlemen,” from Jim, there’s no time to waste being sick.

We all pile over to starboard (“If you’re on the left, you’re on the wrrrronnng side”, drawls Jim). And wait and wait. The captain turns off the motor and we galoop up and down on the swelling sea. Nothing. The whale has already dived and is now feeding somewhere up to three kilometres beneath us. “It could be down there for up to two hours,” says Jim, “We lost that race. But not to worry, the captain is going to listen to see if there are any other whales around”. A handy whale listening device is hastily produced which looks like a long bendy bit of plastic tubing with a funnel duct-taped to the end. The captain listens intently to whale noises which apparently sound like trying to start your car with a flat battery.

Whale watching

We take off again. Jim tells us that all the whales in the area are male as the water is too cold for the breeding females. The females are all (rather cleverly, I think) in the Bahamas. Some of the whales which we will encounter, like Manu, are resident and stay in Kaikoura all year round.

Soon enough we see our first whale, blowing and snorting up ahead. “Our first encounter, ladies and gentlemen, fantastic!” says Jim voicing our enthusiasm for us. But it is thrilling to see a whale close up, it looks like a large floating black log. But we are only seeing the tip of the iceberg, the very top of the whale’s head, the rest of the huge mammal is submerged somewhere beneath the waves.

“We don’t know how long he’s been up, he could go at any minute”, says Jim cheerfully, making us grab for our cameras. No pressure, I think. Sure enough the whale lies there for a bit then arches its back taking a last breath. “Cameras ready people”, calls Jim, “He’s about to dive!”. Sure enough the whale ducks down and its tail flicks gracefully up into the air. You could have heard a pin drop (apart
from the clicking of cameras). We are hooked. We want more whales and Jim knows it. We set out on the hunt once again with all of us hanging on for dear life as the boat powers off.

The experienced crew seem easily able to spot the whales from a long distance, and in total we see five sperm whales. But on the way back into shore Jim says he has a surprise treat for us. A sixth whale, a rare Southern Right is in the area.

We all pile outside again as the boat plies patiently up and down the shoreline in search of the whale. “Over to starboard mate”, says one of the crew. After a few seconds a black hump and a tell-tale waterspout emerges on the slate grey horizon. “This whale’s behaviour is slightly different”, Jim tells us. True enough, it doesn’t lie on top of the sea and flick its tail but duck dives smoothly beside the boat as we putt alongside like its anxious child.

We gaze in mesmerised awe until Jim says it’s time to leave the whale to continue feeding. Though I doubt any whales had actually stopped feeding for a minute because of our presence. They probably
never even noticed we were there.

Jim plays us a series of videos on the trip back to shore which show typical whale behaviour, such as tail thumping and jaw clacking. In one of them called ‘The Encounter’ a determined whale tries to make contact with the boat. On second thoughts, I consider, perhaps it is best to leave them feeding in peace.

The Complete Whale-Watching Handbook: A Guide to Whales, Dolphins, and Porpoises of the World

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TravelTipsPlus Google Map of Kaikoura

One Great Reason to Visit Kaikoura

One great reason to visit this travel destination is for an up close and personal experience with majestic sperm whales.

Magic of Kaikoura

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